This cello was a reasonably decent student instrument, but not quite worth the time and cost of a full soundpost patch. Ideally, you'd remove the top, make a mold, align and glue the crack using the mold for accuracy, install cleats for reinforcement, and then fit a proper soundpost patch. Once that's done, you'd finish cleating the rest of the crack, reattach the top, and touch up the varnish. It’s a thorough process—and the best one for long-term structural stability—but it's also time-consuming, takes up valuable bench space, and requires charging more. The instrument has to justify that kind of investment. In cases like this, I find it an interesting challenge to do as much of the proper process as possible without taking the top off. While this isn’t the textbook approach, I still aim to stabilize the crack effectively using careful planning, smart clamping, and a strategic layout of cleats to reinforce the area under soundpost tension. - Open Seam Area: Open the top right seam and about 3/4 or 1 inch past the crack over the block
- Saddle Removal: Remove the saddle
- Crack Cleaning: Clean the crack
- Dry Clamp Test: Practice dry clamping the crack
- Soundpost Check: Sometimes you need to leave the soundpost in while you are clamping.
- Glue Application: Work an excess amount of hot hyde glue into the crack
- Precise Clamping: Clamp it together making sure the alignment is as close to perfect as possible.
- Overnight Hold: Keep it clamped for one day.
- Post-Clamp Cleanup: Remove the clamps and clean up the crack.
- Crack Tension Consideration: Since this is a soundpost crack there is going to be a lot of tension on the crack.
- Upper Cleats: Install two cleats above the bridge position.
- Lower Cleats: Install two cleats below the bridge but leave enough space to adjust the sound post.
- Additional Cleats: Evenly space cleats on the remaining crack, I think I did another 2 or 3.
- Clamping Method: These cleats were all installed with clamps and molds.
- Magnet Procedure: For cleats where a clamp can't reach, I use my magnet and wire procedure.
- Top Reattachment: Glue the top onto the rib and block
- Saddle Adjustment: Shorten the saddle so there is no undue stress on the crack if the weather changes.
- Bassbar Crack: I also fixed the bassbar crack using a similar procedure.
- Varnish Touch-Up: Touch up the crack with a clear varnish so it's protected from the weather and dirt.
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